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Archive for April, 2010

Testosterone test

My current obsession with the 1980’s continues. Not because I am thinking “wow what a fabulously creative decade that was!” No, no and no again!

It’s simply because a debate is currently raging in the Melt design room, over which aspects of the time ( if any ) are worth exploring for next summer. In that context, I’ve now examined hundreds of magazines from the 80’s, and feel qualified to report that not everything worn then had huge shoulders, or hung loosely on the body, or was made in solid, blocked primary colours. There were designers then such as Romeo Gigli for Callaghan, offering a more interesting and diverse look, and the various Japanese fashion labels like Comme des Garcons were pushing forward.

But my attention has mostly been caught by the strangeness of the styling used for fashion shoots and adverts. The chasm between modern creativity and that of 30 years ago is vast. In my last blog I showed examples of what, to my eye, was some of the awful women’s clothing that had appeared in  magazines such as Vogue. It’s now hard to imagine, by today’s standards, that a fashion editor would have been delighted by those stiff, over dramatised shoots.

Bored with over made up, over coiffed models, I took a look at Vogue’s “Men” section which used to be at the back of each issue. What did I find…………………more thick foundation and hair spray! Feminised men in gender confused poses, what was that all about?

So as a change from the usual women’s stuff, I offer the 80’s view of man……………………

3 men in a boat! Bet she did the rowing

This is so wrong on many different levels!

A very fishy tale? Or, my'n is bigger than yours?

No, no, no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

blind date nightmare

"darling, one day you will be replaced by Agyness Deyn"

definately not apple's safari

star trek meets catwalk man?

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just say no!

The following is an overheard conversation…………………………………

“Love those shoes! Are they vintage?”

“well, I’ve had them a long time……….so they are old. Does that count as vintage?”

………..Good question.

Is the local charity shop full of smelly old tat, or are those overstuffed rails really full of vintage treasure?

Are the unwashed and unwanted best left to hang in Oxfam, or with a little re-vamping are they desirable relics from another age?

I think it’s about personal perceptions. For example, to me the 80’s are old, too ugly and too recent. I lived them, wore them and mostly enjoyed their excesses. But looking back at photos from the decade I’m amazed by the shoulder padded and generally oversized, over accessorised and over blinged images I see. Vintage ? No. All was Maggie Thatchered, brash, powerful, sculptural and very in your overly made-up face.

Designers in the flash 80’s borrowed from the deprived 40’s, as the summer of 2010 has now borrowed from and recreated its own version of 80’s fashion. Word is, that the 90’s are now becoming the new and desirable vintage………..oh, what a very circular old world this can be.

old or vintage?

late 80’s actually.

wierd and so very 1980's

be afraid, be very, very afraid

not to be revived under any circumstances

Begs the question, what happened after she had finished fiddling with those sterile looking gloves?

Gucci, Gucci, gone

Gucci awaiting the winning hand of Tom Ford.

pleats please? no thanks!

Not sure about the strong grip he has on her arm……..maybe they’re expecting a gale force wind?

terrifying!!!!!!!!!!!!!

He is  so much prettier than his scary friend!

have you seen my shiny new palm tree?

Dotty indeed.

swirly wirly......just say no

almost stylish?

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Roll Up! Roll Up!

I’ve just had a conversation with my mother. She is the original Melt London girl, and historical inspiration behind the label.

She is in fact the girl on the far left in the image of the Melt swing tag, that appears on the right-hand side of this page. Next to her are the beautiful Jean, and elegant Trudie.

Anyway, it seems that she is concerned by her lack of recent blog appearances. Obviously, it’s not clever to disappoint my one avid reader, so in deference to my loyal follower (of both fashion and my blog) I dedicate this entry to the always fabulous Ruth………………….

Today’s subject is the roll up. Everywhere you look trouser legs are on a roll, and it’s nothing new…………just ask the “Melt girls”.

the lovely 1940's beach babes displaying their roll ups!

the 40's again! plus great shoes

rock and roll

I did say that this piece is for my mother…………..but it’s impossible to leave out my exceptionally stylish father…………………………..Joe……………………………..

seaside roll ups

Moving on to the 80’s…………………………………..more rolled legs.

1980's still rolling

Beginning of the 21’st century, and rolling on……………………………..

early 00's Melt trouser

Bang up to date, but still on a roll……………………………………

rolled skinny

feminine hillbilly 2010

androgynous roll 2010

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Art is in the detail

Back again in the late 40’s, our Melt London girls had an innate feel for fashion detail. They understood the impact of a well positioned button, or the addition of a seemingly unnecessary pocket. Detail, all is in the detail! A timeless statement piece can appear incredibly simple, but always look again at the cut, the seaming and the juxtaposition of trim.

exquisite tailoring with a diamante trim.

Creativity with fabric self trims was big in the 40’s, probably due to a lack of easily available, and cheaply imported, far eastern tat!

fabric swirl adding impact to the button

seaming and self trim plus diamante and pearl button

Buttons were huge, often literally, making an otherwise bog standard jacket become something more special.

large and beautiful mother of pearl button

colourful decorative jacket button

pretty textured button

impact with large clear acrylic buttons

And finally from the 40’s archive…….. just because I love the sophisticated cut, and simple covered buttons.

elegant jacket with satin collar and cuffs

Ending with an example of Melt’s 21st century take on the art of vintage tailoring.

heritage tweed hacking jacket with a twist....available winter 10

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